Saturday 12 March 2022. DH,BFS, PC, AC, PCL, DL & Sully
Another trip into Wiltshire and another new route and cafe for the 6 of us as we met by Hurd’s watercress farm in Kingston Deverill. (A prior telephone call had confirmed we had permission to park by an entrance gateway). A couple of planned absentees and one late withdrawal meant Sully was the lone dog this week. He was delighted to see all the men as usual but you sense he knew something was amiss, and when he didn’t find Scrumpy or Bill, his fears were confirmed. No mate to lead astray this week and no one to show off to by rolling around in the grass? We had talked on the way up about a Hurd from this area being an old Sexeian, and Phil confirmed it was indeed a young Fergus from the early noughties, as he distinctly remembers being given a bag of fresh watercress back in his days at Walwin House. Some of us remember the small watercress beds at Greenscombe Farm and patches on a previous walk west from Mere, but looking out over the vast expanse of beds and wind break fences, these were clearly on an industrial scale. The cress growing here looked pretty good, and so it should with the benefit of some of the early waters flowing down the river Wylye to grow on.
We set off a few minutes late and headed down a No through road where at the bridge we had our first real glance of the clear waters of this very renown chalk bed river, one of the best in Wiltshire for sure. I’m afraid to say but I then broke one of my golden rules of walking, and that was to take us through a ‘No pedestrian access’ sign this week. It was unclear from the map where the public road ended and the track started and as we were on our first visit I decided that as the right of way we were heading for was only the other side of the buildings, that we would take a chance and continue up the drive. There were a few properties on the track and although we were probably clearly recorded on the CCTV, we passed through unchallenged. The manor certainly looked a grand building and had an additional well maintained tithe barn alongside it. We didn’t stop to look any closer!
Heading north we were soon in the countryside and a grass track led us towards a large barn where we turned right and started our first climb of the day. A good track climbed gently out of the valley and along the side of the hill. With some very artistic woven hedge and specimens trees, with descriptive labels in front of us indicated that this was all managed by a rural development type scheme. As the track levelled out we came across a large flock of sheep in the adjacent field, many of a breed whose fleece covered a large part of their face. Our agricultural correspondent informed us they were most likely Dorsets, with a few black face Suffolks also. As we approached the corner of the track, a farmer was just emerging from checking his flock and so we asked him about the breeds. Brian’s thoughts were confirmed, but we were all a bit shocked to hear that there was a third type in the flock, identifiable by a pinker face as charollais sheep. He went on to tell us that the purpose of the breed is to breed rams for crossing with commercial ewes to produce quality meat lambs for slaughter. The Dorset sheep are famous for their lambing abilities since they are a breed which can lamb all year round with up to two or sometimes three lambing seasons each year. Seems like a good business model to me. Dropping slowly back down towards the river, a couple of awkward slippery stiles slowed our way but once in the open field Adrian was head down scanning the ground for interesting pieces of flint in amongst the chalk. Tales of flint napping lead onto tales of Oyster shells being found and more, yes! the conversation on these walks is many and varied.
Coming out in Brixton Deverill we crossed the Wylye again and turned left in the village up a track leading towards our next ridge line. We had completed 2 miles at this point in just over an hour so an amendment to the planned route to ensure we didn’t miss breakfast lead to another blatant passing of a No Footpath sign, as we turned right on a wide stone track and started another steady upward climb. The sun was out and the azure sky was interspersed with fluffy white clouds, making the views across the Wiltshire countryside truly something to see. Certainly far better weather than on our recent trip up White Sheet.
The climb was slow and steady for all of us but the scenery opening in front of us the higher we got was superb. It still amazes me that less than 20 miles from home we continue to find parts of our local countryside that are truly breathtaking and pretty unspoilt. As we walked up young partridge kept popping out from the thin hedge line and taking flight over the open field, with Sully taking some interest in the closer ones. Evidence of last years crop of corn littered the edges as we edged closer to our summit at a large barn. Questions we’re starting to be asked as to the exact residential status of the barn as we could make out windows and then outside furniture, but as we got to it, and saw the “Catering Staff Only” sign, it was clear it was some kind of social function building built underneath a barn type structure. Was it the local village hall, an off grid party location, or more likely a rendezvous site for farmers and shooters?
Stopping to grab our breaths, and for a bit of Lolly Time, with the summit just a few hundred metres to our left, the views back south and west towards Dorset & Somerset were matched by those North and East over to the edges of Warminster and further right in the distance to the Larkhill side of Salisbury Plain. A quick group selfie and then it was off again, a steady walk east along a ridge but thankfully all downhill from here! As we reached a small copse the noise of birds in the trees and hedges was wonderful to hear, certainly a good mix of game birds but also plenty of smaller finches merrily singing away. The end of the ridge brought a steep decent and having walked most of the route so far with clean dry boots (and a clean dog), the muddy drop down into a wooded area and then along the tracks back to the cars was anything but clean. Time was not on our side as the 2 hour mark arrived, and with fallen tress, a bogged in and abandoned Land Rover littering the way and some very slippery sections, we knew we had to make good time over the last mile or so, or breakfast would be a non starter.
With the cut off time of 11.45 already established, a quick change out of boots and all loaded in the cars (and the boot securely shut for Sully) we made the quick dash to Shearwater lake only to find limited parking spaces. But with a quick hobble to the serving hatch, orders were placed for Fisherman’s breakfasts and some well deserved refreshments and as we took our seats, outside and in the sun for the first time this year, we had just enough time to reflect on the 4.8 mile walk with 500 ft of climb, which had taken us around 20 minutes longer than our normal 2 hours.
Very swift and friendly service soon dismissed my initial doubts as to the quality of the food as good plates full, including proper butchers sausages and the illustrious black pudding soon filled the table. Adrian’s attempt at using his newly donated combined fork and knife (a fnife?) met with limited success, although thankfully no long lasting injury. Some very favourable comments certainly secure the Lakeside Cafe as another one worthy of a return.