Saturday 9th September’23. DH, RW, PCl & Scrumpy
The forecast was for it to be the hottest day of the year and so it was either all to the beach for a swim or find a walk with maximum shade. Thankfully, for other beach goers, I opted for a route with around 75% of it in woods or shaded lanes and so it was, on passing through some early morning mist, that just the three of us met outside Pen Selwood church to do a previously walked route around Pen Pitt. I’d just finished off doing up my boots when the other arrived and got out of the car with Phil trying still trying to complete a story about glasshouses he had started some 15 minutes earlier in Bruton High Street. Scrumpy was very disappointed to find out she was the lone dog today, but once on the lead we took the decision to vary up todays route, and go around it the other way round.
The mist was quickly lifting as we headed past the church and kids playground, and down the narrow lane. Squeezing in tight to the hedge for a couple of cars and keeping clear as a chap on a bike went past quickly followed by two well behaved labradors running off the lead, we moved along quite quickly conscious of being in the morning sunshine. Both my colleagues had walked this route previously albeit in the opposite direction, and it wasn’t until we had turned left down a minor road and reached the signpost for the Monarchs way that there was any recognition of having walked this way previously. The discussion along this section was very much focused on our generations views about the increased cost of travel, the need for ULEZ and the ability to get the world temperatures under control. Tipping our hats to a lady tending her sun baked horses, we carried on down the path alongside a new post and wire fence that has been erected since our previous venture along the path. Unfortunately this stopped us heading for the top corner of the woods to walk amongst the shade, so we continued Along the lane by the side of the woods until we noticed a footpath waymarker on a post pointing into the woods. A quick check of the map to see if the path was marked and confirming it was going to be heading the right direction we were soon into a area of the wood interspersed with large 10 metre wide depressions or pits.
The Pen Pits have been mentioned on previous blogs but for those new to the group there is still some mystery about the estimated 20,000 odd pits which covered over 700 acres in this area of Selwood forest. There are two well-preserved areas of stone quarries worked during the Iron Age, Roman, Early Medieval and later periods for the production of querns and building material. Rather than me repeating a lot of information, there is an article here from the South Somerset Archaeological Research Group website. Of interest to Phil, I read there is a sword discovered in the pits which is now in Salisbury museum. There is also plenty of information on the SSARG website about other areas where they have carried out further archeological investigations.
Continuing through the wood on a twisty but not defined pathway around the tops of the pits, we came across a track leading to a white property which was just visible through the trees. On carrying out a bit of research it transpires that the property used to belong to the great British musical composer Sir Arthur Bliss and was even used a temporary school rooms during WW2. For those of you with a few pounds to spare I see it’s currently on the market, (although under offer) at a shade under three million pounds. More info about this stunning property here.
Thankfully some eagle eyes spotted the next waymarker atop a staddle stone which took us through to the top of a large flight of wooden steps down to another track, where we posed for this weeks selfie. In the absence of Dereyk and Adrian I had actually popped some confectionery in my pocket for this moment, but forget all about it. We turned left along the track to a gateway where there was some discussion about how and when we had passed this old postbox before. I certainly don’t remember but that’s nothing new these days. Passing through another section of the wood we came out by the row of cottages at Castle Orchard and squeezed down a small pathway towards our first stile of the day.
By the side of the cottages a column of half circular stone memorial stones have been erected in memory of a succession of members of the Silk family, from the Boer War, World War 1 and World War 2. It would appear they all survived their respective wars and would appear there were relatives in the area as recently as 5 years ago as I have found records of an Elijah Silk who passed away in 2018 at the age of 90.
Above the stones is a plaque depicting the last supper with the The Latin text below the scene, "AMEN DICO VOBIS QUIA UNUS VESTRUM ME TRADITURUS EST." translated as "Truly, truly, I say to you, that one of you will betray Me." (Brian - if this is not quite right - blame Google)!
Passing through the stile we entered the glorious valley of Coombe Bottom and into the sunlight. Scrumpy was certainly pleased to have a drink and paddle when we crossed one of the small tributary streams of the River Stour in the bottom of the valley, todays lowest (in altitude) point of the walk. Having safely negotiated the stepping stones and as we headed towards the woods at the far side, Richard and I repeated the tale of our first walk in this area when we were trying to find another of Pen Selwood Motte & Bailey forts, and were challenged by the landowner as we looked for the pathway which is marked on the map as passing through his property. The pathway now passes below his house as we avoided the muddy area by stepping over discs of timber as we headed towards a small bridge over the clear river. We then followed it upstream to come out on a small track by a large sign for the Stour Valley Way, which was certainly not there last time we came this way.
The track came right down to river level a bit further along and for no doubt for many centuries was crossed using the ford, with horses and carts travelling some 20 -30 metres along the river before exiting up another slope. These days a wooden vehicle bridge passes over the river Stour and although the track only goes to the one property I wouldn’t want to take anything much heavier than a car over it myself. We stood on the bridge for at least ten minutes just listening to the sound of running water and enjoying a slight breeze, knowing that we were at the lower end of the walk and the next section would definitely be uphill. Suitably refreshed and rested we started the climb up the muddy track which would lead us back onto higher ground. The sun was blazing down in all the open areas but with a steady plod we made it to the top before we took another well deserved rest. The route back to the cars was then fairly level along the wood line before looping through a couple of open fields and eventually onto the road back to the church. A total walk of just over three miles completed in a steady and sensible slow pace over 1 hour 45 minutes.
It was then just a 10 minute journey through Bourton and Zeals to the Hillbrush cafe on the outskirts of Mere, for out first visit in well over 3 years. Finding a table in the shade under the very large parasols, we placed orders for the smaller breakfast on offer today. Individual pots of tea, with leaves in a strainer instead of tea bags were quickly and greatfully received and a short while after three plates of breakfast were delivered. All of it exceptionally well presented. Todays plate included for the first time in a long time a slice of West Country hogs pudding and so to remind Trevor what he was missing, a photograph was quickly sent his way on WhatsApp.
It was a very tasty breakfast all round and as the day got warmer but being in good shade we were quite happy to sit and while away the morning. Eventually the time came to pay and as predicted it was certainly not the cheapest breakfast we have ever had, in fact probably the most expensive. But with the quality food, good ambience and friendly staff it was probably close to being worth it ( from a Yorkshire man point of view). Avoiding the temptation to purchase any brushes, or broomsticks we headed our separate ways to go home and put our feet up for a well deserved rest!
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